figs and twigs

from a lovely place

2011-09-14T10:42:00.003-04:00

A few shots from a lovely place on a drizzly weekend back in August

tomatoes

2011-09-01T08:37:00.003-04:00

Making the most of some pretty tomatoes...

before they're all lost to cool evenings hinting at the arrival of fall.

Quinoa

2011-08-06T08:42:00.005-04:00

Quinoa.
We've been reacquainted this summer after a few too many less than memorable encounters.
What was I thinking???
Second chances, people. They are so important.
Quinoa's won me over this summer, stubborn girl that I am.
Rinsed in a damp tea towel over a mesh strainer, the bitterness is lost. Simmered and steamed, in about 20 minutes it's ready for accompaniment. Twice (maybe three times?) I've tossed it, still a tiny bit warm, with the kernels of 2 corncobs, a little minced spring onion and a few slivered leaves of basil and dressed it with a big squeeze from 1/2 a lime, enough olive oil to make me happy and some sea salt. Last night we ate it in bowls, topped with stewed spicy beans, more summer corn with jalapeno and lime, a quick tomato salsa and a grating of cheese.
And, you know what? It's even delicious for breakfast...
Breakfast Quinoa with Almond-Peach Quick Jam

Simmer 3 peeled, pitted and coarsely chopped ripe peaches together with 1/4 cup of sugar and 1/4 teaspoon (or to taste) of almond extract until thickened, crushing and stirring the fruit as you go - about 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool slightly.
Drizzle enough soy milk over a small dish of leftover plain quinoa to moisten the grains (more or less, depending on your preference) and reheat until just warm.
Spoon over some of the jam and eat happily.

sights

2011-07-28T13:04:00.004-04:00

Some scenes from our recent trip to the west coast where we encountered: pristine (and windy!) beaches,

spots to sit and linger with friends,

fantastic poppies,

tea brewed over open flames,

and large and friendly snails, to name a few...

beans

2011-07-21T08:12:00.006-04:00

At least the beans are surviving in this dreadful heatwave...
(unfortunately so are the weeds - thriving, actually - but that's a whole 'nother story)

at the moment...

2011-07-15T08:01:00.004-04:00

... pink hydrangea is blooming away,the fennel is taking off,and the last of the radishes are in the fridge.

A Fennel and Radish Salad
Thinly slice one fresh bulb of fennel and one giant purple radish (or a few smaller radishes of your choosing), and toss the slices together in a bowl with a good squeeze of lemon juice and a drizzle of olive oil. Season it all with salt and pepper and a few feathery shavings of parmesan.

Vacation was amazing - going through the photos now...

27 june

2011-06-27T19:07:00.005-04:00

Busy, busy, busy week ahead - and then - off to the west coast! See you soon.

14 june

2011-06-14T21:42:00.003-04:00

muddling through

2011-06-09T13:30:00.004-04:00

Hmmmm. Too hot for words 'round here. We're talking triple digits and wheezing window units. I'm thinking pizza. With some of the first zucchini, mint and pecorino, maybe. On the grill. Just to avoid turning on the oven.
Of course, there's a bit of this salad leftover from yesterday too.
Some how we'll muddle through...
I might even snap a photo or two again.

in the works

2011-05-27T09:47:00.008-04:00

So, so, so excited to have a long weekend!

Planning on giving this a go - to be consumed with a smear of fresh goat cheese and a drizzle of honey, perhaps.
And - I know - it's early for cherries here, but I can't seem to pass them by, even if they are from California...

But I had to give Todd Thrasher's cherries a go (I gave mine a hot-water bath so that they'll keep longer), and I can't wait to taste them after they've cured a bit. Also decided that this is the year I finally buy a cherry pitter (just snagged a vintage one, actually) - because that little paperclip, there? Doesn't work AT ALL - ended up using a piping tip out of frustration...

And if you're in the market for some lovely household goods, or just looking (as I am these days) at some, this spot is gorgeous - and this one too!

Have a lovely long(!) weekend!

worth mentioning

2011-05-25T13:00:00.005-04:00

A few things worth mentioning:

Love this story in the current issue of Bon Appetit - I laughed out loud in places; dreamed of deliciously chaotic Saturday lunches, and drooled over the gorgeous photos

Also - made this over the weekend:

Grilled Peppers with Lemon Thyme and Capers

(as I remember it)

Bring the little hibachi out onto the deck*, then drag over the smallest of the three porch rocking chairs. Start a charcoal fire and let the coals ash over before you spread them over the base of the grill. Insert the grates over the hot coals and give them a few minutes to heat up. Rub a little olive oil over 4 sweet red peppers and lay two on each grate. Sit back in your rocker, tongs within reach, cool glass in hand. Smell the rain approaching, contemplate the sizzle and smoke, nudge the peppers every so often, until the skins are blistered and the flesh is softened. Transfer the lot to a brown paper bag (use those tongs!), roll the top closed and let them steam a few minutes on the kitchen counter. When they've cooled enough to handle, slide them out of the bag onto the cutting board, slip their skins away, and slit one side so that they can be splayed open on the board. Pull the stems away and take the membranes and seeds out too. Slice the soft peppers into 1/2 inch strips and toss them into a pretty bowl as you go. Shake out a small handful (a tablespoon or so) of salt-packed capers and rinse them in hand, in the sink - don't let any escape! Coarsely chop them on the board and add them to the pepper strips. Smash and finely chop (or mash into a paste) 1 small clove of garlic - add it to the bowl along with a teaspoon of red wine vinegar, a tablespoon of olive oil and a few tiny leaves of lemon thyme (or herb of your choice). Toss together with clean hands and season with a little salt and pepper. Be sure to leave it sit on the counter to think about things for a half an hour or so before you bring your plate by.

*Or, you can, of course, use the broiler - just be vigilant...

happy weekend

2011-05-19T19:16:00.003-04:00

I heard a rumor that it just might not rain this weekend... Which is good news for these poor, porch-bound tomatoes.
Happy gardening - happy weekend to you all!

springy things

2011-05-11T20:07:00.000-04:00

the parsley's gone mad - an out of control hedge in the garden - not that I mind (too much).thinking about a lemon-parsley pesto, perhaps; tabbouleh, of course - but no tomatoes, no cukes at this time of year... what else?
then there are radishes too - lovely, long(ish) French breakfast and a couple deep-red globes of cherry belles. these we crunch out of hand, pinching their little tails as we go. spicy this year too - a bonus in my book.
and spring without asparagus? it just wouldn't be right. (loving this little hibachi - parking it on the deck, sitting low - if grilling could be intimate, this is the way)
happy weekend-ing to you all!

lately

2011-05-03T08:28:00.005-04:00

Some snippets from the past week... Have you tried this?

Love seeing these blooms each day.

Sometimes 'dinner' is more of an idea, really...

Hope your week is coming along nicely.

this and that

2011-04-28T23:59:00.001-04:00

Spring...
In those first few days of warming weather, shoots and leaves begin to sprout in shades of green so vibrant they seem, well, almost...un-natural. While I'm plunking radish seeds into damp, freshly-tilled soil, a few rows over the sorrel and arugula are already making good on last year's investments. Tarragon stretches upward at an alarming pace and the chives already have their pretty purple blossoms. Tiny, perfectly ruffled burnet leaves appear, the oregano is a small bush on it's own , and that mint - it may just devour every living thing in its path this year... (I'm thinking mojitos and raita, tea and summer rolls are going to be abundant this summer) While these old friends are taking off, I've been snipping away - a little of this, a little of that - to eat, tumbled together in the salad bowl. Tossed with fingers, sprinkled with toasted sesame, a slight Parmesan dusting, and a drizzle of dressing - spring is here; get it while the getting's good!

ramps

2011-04-14T23:59:00.000-04:00

Plodding along this week - rain every other day makes it hard to get things in the ground and I'm ready to see my own garden spring forward. It's been a slow, ease into spring this year, but at least the parsley's come back (sometimes it doesn't) and the sorrel and arugula are doing just fine. I've even spotted sprouts in the radish and chard rows. Our farmer's markets are just now starting up again - I snapped up some baby kale, scallions, salad greens and these local ramps. Which, if like me you didn't know existed until fairly recently, are a nice find at the market. Local wild (foraged) foods seem to be gaining popularity and I love coming across them. They're special - unique to our localities, only available when perfectly in season, hand-picked - often the kind of thing for which recipes are recited from memory, passed down or jotted on scraps of paper, origins murky or possibly unknown altogether. Though I suppose these days, you can find just about anything online... Pizza with Wild Ramps, Mushrooms and Sausage (another pizza - no rules - use whatever quantities you have on hand) Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. In a medium skillet, heat a tablespoon or two of olive oil over medium heat. Saute 1 link of Italian sausage (sweet or hot), casing removed and meat crumbled, with a handful of sliced mushrooms and a small bunch of cleaned, trimmed and sliced ramps for a few minutes, until the sausage is cooked through and the mushrooms have softened. Spread a ball of pizza dough out on a baking sheet (or free-form on parchment paper, if baking on a stone), spread a few tablespoons of pizza sauce over the crust, top with a crumble of feta and some grated Provalone. Distribute the sausage and ramp mixture across the surface and bake for 10-20 minutes, or until the crust is browned and the cheese has melted (if using a stone, transfer the pizza, still on the parchment, to the stone and bake, paper and all, in the same manner).

mangoes

2011-04-07T16:59:00.000-04:00

Do you wake up hungry? I don't usually. It hits me a little later. I suppose I need to wake up a bit first, make a cup of tea, coffee, something, and rub my eyes into focus before I think about nourishment. Consequently I often eat at my desk on weekday mornings. Not ideal, but certainly not the worst spot either. Lately I've been grabbing a homemade muffin or filling a jam jar with a quick yogurt-y parfait (I don't like that word - parfait, it sounds too dessert-like for a breakfast, not sure what a better term might be, though).

The other day I was reading this article about mangoes and dreaming about the two I had sitting on the dining room table at home. I love a mango lassi and this recipe reminded me of that. When I got home later that day it struck me that one could easily use that gorgeous combination of mango and rose water in, well, a bunch of ways (wouldn't a jam be amazing?). Since I often make these jam-jar breakfasts with whatever fruit I have on hand, I tinkered a little with the mango and made myself breakfast for the next morning.

Mango and Rose Water Parfait

Peel and cut 1/2 a ripe mango. Combine the mango pieces, about 1 teaspoon of sugar (or to taste) and 1/8 teaspoon rose water in a food processor or blender. Puree until well-blended and mostly smooth. Layer in a half-pint jam jar with plain yogurt and homemade granola (I like Molly's - minus the chocolate). This made enough fruit puree for me to make two 1/2 pint jars.

a pizza for the end of march...

2011-03-30T23:59:00.005-04:00

... with caramelized onions and roasted radicchio. Sweet, bitter, a little salty and completely impromptu. I love it when a weeknight dinner comes off with little effort and still feels a bit sophisticated. Caramelized Onion and Roasted Radicchio Pizza Preheat the broiler. Caramelize the 2 small yellow onions*. Roast a small head of radicchio* while the onions are cooking. Set both aside, turn the oven down to 450. Spread a small ball of pizza dough onto a pizza pan, baking sheet, or piece of parchment paper (if transporting dough directly to a pizza stone). Drizzle the dough with a little olive oil and scatter a minced clove of garlic over the surface. Now grate on a little provolone - just a tablespoon or two. Top this with onions and the radicchio. Bake in the hot oven for 10-15 minutes, or until the edges of the crust are beginning to brown nicely. Remove, add a few curls of Parmesan (I use a vegetable peeler), slice and nibble with a glass of wine and a green salad. *To caramelize the onions: Peel and trim two small yellow onions. Cut them in half and slice the halves into thin half-moons. Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions, a 1/2 teaspoon of lemon thyme (regular thyme, or whatever you like), and season them with a pinch of coarse salt and a few grinds of pepper. Cover the pan and leave undisturbed for 5 minutes. Remove the lid and continue to cook until the onions are beautifully browned and sweet - about 20 minutes more - adding a spoonful of water every so often when the onions begin to stick to break up the browned bits. *To roast the radicchio: Preheat the broiler. Remove any wilted outer leaves from the head, trim the stem end, but don't remove it completely. Slice the head into small wedges - about 1 - 1 1/2 inches thick. Toss the wedges with a good drizzle of olive oil and sprinkle with a little salt and ground pepper. Spread them onto a baking sheet in a single layer and place under the broiler for about 4 to 5 minutes, watching all the while, until they begin to wilt and caramelize.

rainy day

2011-03-24T23:59:00.002-04:00

April showers seem to have come a couple of weeks early. A few days of chilly drizzle this week - excellent weather for watching a British murder mystery or two (maybe three), or sinking into a comfy spot with a good read (finished this one and waiting on this one).

I'll leave you for the weekend with a sunny shot from last Sunday.
Sip a Gingino and think warm and sunny thoughts. Happy Friday!

sunday dinner

2011-03-17T23:59:00.005-04:00

We've been practicing the art of the Sunday dinner around here for the past few weeks. Embracing the pace of the day (or at least, the pace we try to allow) - slow, calm, at ease, and un-fettered - I've been making it a priority to put together a well-composed (but not too fussy - the point is to enjoy the time in the kitchen), sit-down dinner for the two of us to bring Sunday to it's gentle close. With all the turbulence and distressing news these days, it's important to pause and take in something nourishing, comforting and just plain nice.

No idea yet what the pantry will yield this week, but that's part of the fun - taking some time to leaf through magazines or re-discover old favorites on the cookbook shelf (Molly's Pamplemousse in hand, perhaps). That Zuni Roast Chicken served us well back in February (and made an encore last week) - there's a reason it's so well-loved.

Been eyeing these too:

*Saveur's recipe for Butter Chicken or Heidi's Coconut Red Lentil Soup for something lighter

*making good on that note to use more radicchio, this risotto might be a winner, served with a green salad (I think I made this once before with good results)

*I quite like perusing this book right now too, so maybe something will come of that

This little bit of time in the kitchen on Sunday seems to provide great jumping-off points for the rest of the week too. The Zuni recipe gave us chicken stock for the freezer (or a soup) and chicken for sandwiches, not to mention leftover greens (we used arugula and frisee in the bread salad) for salads - the starting points for three meals or more, easily for us. Nothing makes me happier than getting the most from a beautiful meal.

jasmine, radicchio and lemon panna cotta

2011-03-10T23:59:00.003-05:00

First this sweet little bloom

that popped out with several other brave souls at some point when I wasn't looking. As did the chives that I snipped and tossed into a nice cold weather salad for Sunday dinner.
(After which I made a note to remember to do more with radicchio - far under-used in my kitchen, I realize)

Even with that 'surprise' bit of snow this Monday and all the rain heading our way, signs of spring are emerging and I'm smitten.

I love peeking at these photos of vintage linen (something about spring coming and airing out fresh laundry on the line, I suppose).

This panna cotta was (is still) amazing - bright, light and redolent of sunny days. (I did use regular lemons though, as Meyers can be hard to come by here sometimes, and I might add a little more sugar next time even though I like tart sweets...)

this week

2011-03-03T23:59:00.003-05:00

This week I've been...Looking at lemons (so sunny and cheerful) and

Making some baklava (from Tessa Kiros' lovely book Falling Cloudberries - beautiful little individual parcels filled with apricots, pistachios and almonds and drenched in a seductive syrup of honey, lemon and Vietnamese cinnamon (the best, for sure)) - and sharing them at a Mediterranean themed dinner party.

Also - taking advantage of the first few days warm enough to pass up thick, woolen socks! Spring is surely right around the corner...

Here are a few things I've been particularly enjoying in general this week:

Barton Perreira glasses and Burberry trench coats

My Life in France (such a great read and positively transporting)
Kusmi Troika tea (I like it a little sweet, and very strong on chilly, wet early spring mornings...)

You Will Meet a Tall, Dark Stranger (Woody Allen - makes me laugh, every time)

Have a great weekend!

hi

2011-02-27T20:00:00.001-05:00

Hello!

I've been enjoying time away from the computer... A good many of my working hours are spent looking at the screen, and I've taken to abstaining from so much as checking my e-mail on the weekends lately. It's been liberating! No commitment, no pressure; just free, real, time to use however I wish. All I had to do was let go. I've reclaimed the weekends as my own, I suppose...

Which isn't to say that I'm leaving this space. But I have realized that I've been imposing upon myself here - creating a pressure to post even when I have nothing much to say (how silly is that?). And for a little while now, I really haven't had much to say. There's been no interest in taking pictures (is it the lack of pure sunshine this winter?), very little inspiration to do much in the kitchen other than follow a recipe (there have been some good ones though) - just a general malaise, I think. It seems to be going around too, I gather.

So I've decided to free myself of this - to let go here as well. I've made a few changes, visually, and added some new links. I'd like to open up the content and follow what inspires me - not strain to write strictly about the kitchen or the garden -though, in truth, those will probably still be the focus. This may mean that I won't be posting on a 'regular' basis because I don't want that pressure to be an influence/hindrance. But I do hope that the posts I create will be truer and more free.

p.s. the wrapper in the photo held Molly's recipe for banana bread with chocolate and crystallized ginger (in muffin form, of course) found here (though I used the recipe in her book, which is slightly different - and a little addictive...

currently

2011-01-03T11:48:00.002-05:00

Currently enjoying a winter break from blogging (and technology in general). Walking in the snowy mountains, drinking steamy cups of tea, reading and daydreaming, eating spicy chickpeas, and waiting for inspiration.

In the meantime, I hope all your holidays were full of warmth and good company and your new year is off to a great start!

still

2010-12-15T14:49:00.004-05:00

So.
Still no photos (boo) which is a bummer. But it is the holiday season and what a whirlwind of activity it is lately!
So, even without pictures, life goes on - in the kitchen especially - with little windowsill displays of tiny woodland fauna and glittery miniature pine forests and plenty of sweet, little treats to share with friends and family.
In the cookie tins this year I've nestled:
palmiers
chocolate crackles
salted toffee
coconut macaroons
rum balls (swapping rum for bourbon)
vanilla malteds
meringue mushrooms
garam masala-chocolate gingerbread

All of which are pretty tasty (I had to try them before sending them off, you know...).

What's in your oven?

Happy Holidays!

leftovers

2010-11-30T08:08:00.005-05:00

I'm sure you have some.

And - I know there are tons of recipes and ideas out there.

But, if you don't make stock with that turkey carcass, you're missing out! Big time. I'm not kidding.

It's so simple too - I use this method whenever we have leftovers from a roasted bird.

Get out your crockpot, fill it with all the bones and bits and drippings (our bird was 14 Lbs*), add 2 carrots, chunked (I didn't peel mine this time - sometimes I do), 1 medium yellow onion, quartered (don't bother to peel), 2 stalks of celery, chunked, 1 tsp. of peppercorns, 1 Turkish bay leaf, and a handful of parsley (if you have it). Fill the pot with fresh water to cover the carcass. Then set it on low and let it go overnight (or for about 8 hours, more or less). It will fill your house with the most tempting aroma! In the morning (or when it's finished), turn it off, let it cool just a bit and strain the stock through a fine mesh sieve into a large bowl or stockpot. I then use my fat separator to remove the fat and pour the stock into 1-quart freezer containers. You can also chill the stock and scrape the fat from the surface - assuming you want to remove it... (At this point, you may want to season it with salt, if needed). I generally get 2 quarts - sometimes more if the bird was smaller.
*If you have a smaller bird (say, a 3 or 4 Lb chicken), you might double the carrots, celery and onion to boost the flavor a bit.

Now you can do all sorts of delicious things - like make this excellent turkey and rice soup:

(insert photo of steaming bowl of beautiful soup here - still no photos...)

Or, you can freeze the stock for later use - and it does come in handy, especially in these coming cold, winter months...

i admire

2010-11-22T13:35:00.007-05:00

I admire those bloggers who take gorgeous photos and post entertaining, witty and spontaneous tales of the past few days' events: several. times. a. week.

They're so inspiring. So industrious. And it looks like they're having so much fun!

Something funny's going on with the communication between my very old (in technology years) computer and my camera's memory card(s)...

So while there's plenty out there to read and day-dream over, I've got only a few links (no photos) to share this week...

Like this tart which sounds divine. Mmmmm anise and pumpkin!

Or this pie - sweet potato and coconut - for something familiar, but with a little twist.

Heidi has a great list of vegetarian Thanksgiving dishes too. Her crusty brussels sprouts are some of my favorites.

And of course, these made a great little breakfast Sunday with a few spoonfuls of a quick-cooked applesauce - two honeycrisps, peeled, cored and chopped and cooked down over medium heat with a spoonful of sugar and just enough cider to keep them from sticking.

Good stuff.

Hope everyone's Thanksgiving is stress-free and delicious this week!

sunday

2010-11-14T19:32:00.008-05:00

whole wheat chocolate chip cookies from here (Molly's version here)
herbed white bean and sausage soup recipe found here via this post (fantastic blog, no?)

start to finish

2010-11-01T15:00:00.000-04:00

Did you save your seeds? They're delicious, you know...
After carving a couple of jack-o-lanterns, we fished out the seeds, rinsed them in a colander and laid them out to dry a bit overnight.
Then I, crazy woman that I must be, stood over the sink, shelling the little seeds. Which isn't strictly necessary, but oddly meditative - much like shelling peas or snapping beans. And, really, those tough hulls are for the birds (literally), I think. All nutritive aspects aside - they are t-o-u-g-h and I prefer my pepitas without.
After drying out they can be stored in a jar in the cabinet for quite a while. Of course one could toast them and top a salad, yogurt, cereal, etc. or even grind them into a sauce (an enchilada sauce would be perfect) or simply pop a few here and there for a nice little nibble...

october

2010-10-25T20:42:00.003-04:00

Some fantastic mornings around here lately.
October's putting on quite the show.
Those gorgeous trees - leaves raining down in yellows, reds and rusty browns, watercolor morning skies, and that bewitching hunter's moon last week. It really gets one motivated.
Finally, scraping, sanding and painting this old wrap-around porch - yep, seriously motivational weather 'round here...

settling in

2010-10-18T21:25:00.008-04:00

Can it really have been an entire month since the last post here? I suppose it must have been, as I'm sitting here, back from our short, little honeymoon, looking over photos of an autumn already in full swing:
A drive into the mountains with a view for days; all the leaves turning gold and scarlet, blue mountains stretching on and on...
One fiery tree stood out against that perfect blue sky,
over-top a rushing waterfall.
A stop in at the local brewpub - each offering had to be sampled (the miner's daughter oatmeal stout was the first to go),
while gazing out the window as the sun set behind those beloved mountains.
And then off again to a nearby patch for pumpkin picking - it's definitely October, no doubts now.
And finally, home, to find ourselves and our daily lives again - to settle in and feel the chill of autumn also settling in. And - of course - to make soup and settle into a bowl as warm and comforting as a home and your honey.
(A spinach and chickpea soup with soba noodles - adapted just a tad, from an older edition of An Honest Kitchen, and looking good for lunch all this week)
It's so nice to be back!

okra, jam and brussels sprouts

2010-09-15T12:00:00.003-04:00

So... Here's a picture of those crazy okra pods I mentioned last time...Aren't they wild? With a quick visual measure, I'd say the longest are about 8 inches! They look positively tribal in the garden, still attached to their stalks.

However, what I really wanted to share is a glimpse into all the jam-making that's been happening 'round here this summer.

Nearly 200 jars (!!!) are currently stacked, awaiting our wonderful guests in a few weeks.

It's been a busy summer!

p.s. Love, love, love the brussels sprouts in this book! Do you have it? It's incredible.

time and tofu

2010-09-08T15:22:00.007-04:00

Time is flying.

August was a dream.

September's underway, every one's musing about fall. It will be here in a blink, you know. I know. I crunched a few acorns underfoot today, dropped and scattered on the old brick sidewalks near the office. And despite all the hub-bub around here, I managed to tear away at some of the weeds choking what little remains in the garden this past weekend. I even planted 3 small rows: wild rocket, turnips, and rapini - we'll see what happens. The insects have not been kind this year (and neither has the weather - dry as a bone for weeks now). I snapped a few sneaky okra pods that grew so large, they split their seams and dried into the most unusual rattles. Of course, no pictures...

The only thing I did manage to photograph, and really it's not the most photogenic (although delicious) of subjects, was this tofu I somehow found the time to assemble.

Perched atop a paddle-ful of leftover brown rice it made for a nice lunch in between frenzied weed-pulling and the myriad of other tasks that go with planning a wedding...

sweet things

2010-08-22T12:01:00.001-04:00

Oh, my.

It's been a while...
The truth is that, well, there really hasn't been much going on in the kitchen lately.

Slicing a peach is about as far as it goes these days. And I'm afraid it's going to be like this for a little while.

Because, after ten years (yikes!) -
we're getting married in just a few weeks!

baby eggplant (or aubergine, if you prefer)

2010-08-06T08:33:00.001-04:00

Aubergine sounds so much nicer, don't you think?
At any rate, I've been picking these tiny things by the basketful as two of my plants seem to be wilting away (odd watering, I suspect). Nevertheless they are quite tasty and great for a pan of curry.
By the way, having all the veggies for this dish, hand-picked from a short walk out the door, is, in a word, amazing.
Baby Eggplant and Potato Curry

Heat 3 Tb. ghee in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1 medium onion, chopped, and 1/2 Tb. brown mustard seeds and cook for about 3 minutes, until the onions begin to soften. Add to this 3 large tomatoes, chopped, a pinch of turmeric, and a bit of salt, and continue to cook another 3 minutes or so, until the tomatoes begin to break down and the onions get even softer. Then toss in roughly 2 1/2 C. of sliced baby eggplant and 2 1/2 C. of peeled, chopped potatoes. Stir in 1 tsp. of red chili powder, 1/2 tsp. garam masala, 1/2 tsp. sugar, and 1 tsp. ground coriander, and 2 C. water. Bring the curry to a simmer, then lower the heat and put the lid on. Cook, gently simmering, with the lid on for about 20 minutes, or until the eggplant and potatoes are cooked through. If too much liquid remains, remove the lid and increase the heat, simmering - almost boiling, to reduce the liquid.

Serve with fragrant basmati rice and cooling cucumber raita.

Quick Cucumber Raita

In a medium bowl, stir together 1 C. Greek yogurt, 1 small minced garlic clove, 1/2 small cucumber, peeled, seeded and minced, a pinch of salt, a pinch of ground cumin, and 1 tsp. of chopped fresh cilantro.

july's tomatoes

2010-07-24T09:54:00.005-04:00

Principe Borghese, yellow pear, sungold, and orange-fleshed purple smudge.

How do you like to eat them?

jam for a challenge

2010-07-17T12:58:00.006-04:00

Blueberry Lime Jam
(adapted from the recipe for Blueberry Quick Jam in the Ball Complete Book of Home Preserving)

*For the Blueberry Challenge over at Grown In Frederick*

In a large jam pot, combine 4 1/2 Cups of crushed blueberries, the juice of 1 1/2 limes (4 Tb.), the zest of 1 lime, and 7 Cups of sugar. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring constantly and stir in 2 pouches of liquid pectin. Boil hard for 1 minute, skimming off the foam. Ladle the hot jam into clean, hot, sterilized jars leaving 1/4 inch head space, wipe the rims clean, center on the lids and screw bands down until finger-tight. Process in a water-bath canner for 10 minutes; remove the canner lid, turn off the heat and let rest for another 5 minutes before removing the jars to cool on a towel on the counter. Any that do not seal can be kept in the refrigerator for a few months.

pickling

2010-07-15T21:58:00.007-04:00

A few photos - as promised - from the steamy, summer kitchen...
(garlic dills with hot peppers)

mid-summer

2010-07-12T15:14:00.005-04:00

Such a slacker I've been.

Here, I mean, of course. At home I've been whirring through batches of jams and jellies, picking beans and trying to keep up with zucchini - and those darn deer that seem to STILL make their way into the garden.

Keeping up is what I should have titled this post, because that's really what's going on. It's mid-summer, and dreadfully hot in the garden and, some days, even hotter in the kitchen. It can be a bit - un-inspiring, you know? So much time is spent pickling this or preserving that, freezing, packing and picking some more, that meals lately have been a second thought - cobbled together, often enough, from a handful of pasta and whatever vegetable is abundant that day. Sad to say, when there is so much to be had right now, but this is the downside (if you could really call it that) of growing your own. Lucky for us that this summer's bounty doesn't need much to be made into dinner - perfectly ripe, perfectly fresh - there is no better way to eat, and that's what it's all about.

Back soon with photos, I hope...

Happy summer!

off the cobb

2010-06-28T07:46:00.004-04:00

This summer, in all it's heavy heat and maddening humidity, arrived last week, officially. It's been a blur of busy work schedules, pet-sitting, and valiant efforts to cool off lately, and I keep meaning to write out the recipe for this tasty soup, but find myself, well, getting side-tracked repeatedly. But, when you have a minute, and say, 6 ears, of leftover sweet corn because you figured on a dozen ears for 6 guests, and for the first time ever, folks only ate 1 ear apiece, consider turning those leftovers into this smoky-sweet soup.
Roasted Corn Chowder
(adapted from the recipe for Roasted Corn Soup in, Fresh from the Farmers' Market)

Begin by striping the corn from the 6 ears of leftover boiled corn-on-the-cob. Preheat your oven to 425 degrees Fahrenheit, and place the kernels in a baking dish in the oven to roast for about 45 minutes, or until they begin to color and smell amazing. While the corn is roasting, cut 4 of the cobs in half and put them in a stockpot with 1 quart of cool water and 1 medium red potato (peeled and chunked). Bring this to a boil and simmer it until the corn has finished roasting or until the potato has cooked through. Dry roast 2 cloves of garlic, by placing them, whole, skin and all, into a hot, dry skillet over medium-high heat until they begin to char. When the corn has finished roasting and the garlic is soft, and charred on the outside, Place the corn and peeled garlic into a food processor and puree until smooth with the cooked potato (removed from the broth), adding the corn broth a bit at a time (remove and discard the cobs first), until you have used it all. Return the soup to a clean pot and add 1/2 cup of whole milk (or cream, if you like), and gently re-heat. Season the soup with salt and freshly ground pepper and serve it topped with a good sprinkle of smoked paprika and a few chopped chives.

washing up

2010-06-17T11:48:00.006-04:00

At the sink,in sudsy, basil-scented water,

or in the bright, early sun,

lately it's been quite nice washing up.

the beans

2010-06-07T18:34:00.010-04:00

The other day I mentioned our greens. And how we've been gobbling them up at every turn (and we're still not sick of them, thank you very much).
But what I didn't mention were the beans that I've made twice now in two weeks.
These wonderful beans.
I ask you, is there anything more homey, more satiating than a big pot of slowly simmered, perfectly seasoned (and I'm not talking just salt here), soft-to-the-tooth beans? The kind that sit on the back burner, gently bubbling and filling the house with a soft, spicy aroma for two - maybe three - hours on a Sunday afternoon?
I miss his restaurant that has been closed for several years now, but some time ago I picked up a copy of Mark Miller's Red Sage cookbook and was thumbing it through the other day when I spied his base recipe for black beans (or, as in this instance, the mottled beauties shown above). As I've been true to the recipe, aside from substituting those pretty heirloom beans and maybe adding a pinch more of salt, I won't be copying it here (so pick up a copy of the book).
I will, however, describe the idea and tell you that it starts with these:
Sticky-sweet and smokey from a nice charring under the broiler, these tomatoes are made into a puree and added to a pot of beans covered in cool spring water. After several hours, simmering with roasted garlic, fresh thyme, white onion, chipotles and jalapenos, the beans are finished off with fresh cilantro and salt.

It's so simple, really, but...

Something wonderful happens next:

You get to eat them!
(even if it's breakfast time...)

greens for breakfast

2010-06-02T17:50:00.009-04:00

We've been eating our greens.
By the basketful.
Repeatedly.
For a few weeks now.
Even for breakfast.
I love it.
After a leisurely cup of coffee (tea, if you like), stroll through the dewy grass out to the garden - basket, bucket, or apron folds in tow. Stand in the doorway to breathe in the last of the cool air before the humidity sets in. Stroll over to the spinach rows and pinch a few handfuls of the shiny leaves. Cross the center (tomato alley) to the back corner to steal a bit of baby sorrel, then head for the door, pausing to snag the smallest of the borage leaves, tucked deep in the center of each plant (they grow so quickly!).
Spin, spin, spin the leaves almost completely dry after a good rinsing and set them down while you fetch three garlic scapes (spring onions are good too) from the fridge. Heat a large wok, or deep pan over medium heat and drizzle in a bit of olive oil to warm while you chop the scapes. Toss them in and stir them about while you reach for the greens with your other hand. Begin to add the leaves in fistfuls, stirring in between to wilt them and make room for the next bunch. Sprinkle a pinch of salt into the mix, and when the greens have all just wilted take the pan off the heat.
Pull the one remaining clean dish from the cupboard and spoon a good helping of last night's beans (re-heated) next to a pile of the garlicky greens. Finish the greens with a sprinkling of smoked paprika and a dash (or three) of hot sauce, if you dare.
Sit, contented, and ponder how to spend the remainder of the day.

catching up

2010-05-25T15:09:00.012-04:00

So...
It's been a little quiet around here this month.
Behind the scenes, however, things have been happening.

No thumb-twiddling here.
In fact, lists are disappearing and little things are growing into much bigger things.
The garden has its door (and fence, thank goodness!).
And the stone has been laid underneath the hose spigot.
I've even just spied a little glimpse of promises to come.
Best of all, soon I'll be among old friends in one of my favorite spots.
Maybe I'll even find some time to cook a dish or two...

gather ye oregano while ye may...

2010-05-15T21:08:00.007-04:00

...in bright, glowing orange buckets,
for stringing along and drying in the filtered sunlight of a kitchen window.

(I've barely made a dent in the patch)

pho ga

2010-05-01T21:27:00.006-04:00

May has brought with it the sun and a weekend of unusually warm (dare I say hot?) temperatures. So in the midst of this heat wave I'm making soup.
Why?
Well, because I believe in chicken soup. And if I have to be plagued by a nasty little head cold on the nicest weekend we've had in weeks, I'm going to need it. In quarts.
Begin this soup early in the day (or even the day before). Make the broth and set aside the chicken. Then just before you are ready to re-heat the broth, gather whatever condiments strike your fancy and have them at the ready for a speedy assembly. This allows for plenty of time in between to stare listlessly outside in the fog of sinus-relief pills - or - to accomplish something much more productive...

Pho Ga
(Vietnamese Noodle Soup with Chicken)
-adapted from Hot, Sour, Salty, Sweet

Fetch that large cast-enamel pot from its resting spot above the stove. Rinse a 3 1/2 pound organic chicken and place it in the pot along with its neck and giblets. Add to this 3 quarts of spring water and bring it all to a boil over medium-high heat. While the stock is coming to its boil, heat a dry skillet over high heat. Peel and quarter one large yellow onion and peel a thumb-sized knob of fresh ginger. Add these to the hot skillet and allow them to char, turning periodically to blacken bits on all sides. Once the stock is boiling, add the charred onion and ginger and a teaspoon of whole black peppercorns. Skim off any foam that may be accumulating, reduce the heat to gently simmer the stock, and partially cover the pot with a lid. Continue to simmer for 45 minutes more. Remove the chicken to a platter and allow to cool a bit, then remove the meat from the bones and pull apart to shred with your fingers. Set aside. Strain the broth through a cheese-cloth lined sieve into a large bowl (or another soup pot), then transfer to containers and refrigerate. Once the broth is cooled, skim off and discard (or reserve for another use) the fat that will have separated out on the top.
When ready to assemble the soup, re-heat as much broth as you like in a stock pot over medium-high heat, adding a bit of fish sauce to taste (I used about 1 teaspoon for 2 cups of broth, or 2 tablespoons for all 3 quarts - but this is all subject to taste). Cook an appropriate portion of cellophane noodles in a pot of boiling water until just translucent and softened - about 1 minute. Drain and rinse with cold water.
Find a wide, deep bowl and fill it with a handful of the cooked noodles and some of the reserved chicken. Ladle over as much hot broth as desired and serve with any combination (or nothing else at all) of the following:

crispy fried shallots (thinly sliced shallots fried in hot oil and drained on a paper-towel lined plate)
dried wood ear mushrooms (reconstituted by soaking in hot water and thinly sliced)
fresh bean sprouts
charred ginger paste (a knob of ginger charred (as above) and bashed into a paste with a pinch of salt)
lime wedges
sprigs of fresh herbs (cilantro, rau ram (Vietnamese cilantro), basil, and/or mint)
siracha

jelly jar bouquets, swiss chard, chickpeas, spring

2010-04-15T11:00:00.001-04:00

The daffodils have come and gone, grape hyacinth taking their place along the drive. Lemon thyme and a handful of other hardy herbs (tarragon, lemon balm, mint, and sweet woodruff) are poking up through their bed. Enough were foraged to fill a jelly jar for the table and scent the hands that picked them.
After a busy weekend of house guests and a birthday party and a gorgeous full day of playing gardener in the dirt, I stood at the stove to simmer a tin of chickpeas in some aromatics and chiles, adding handfuls of ribboned chard and braising the greens for a time.
It seemed the thing to do - earthy and warm on a chilly and rainy spring evening; a simple exercise to ease in after birthday cakes and dirty dishes.
I love the bustle of cooking for a crowd, planning the menu, and seeing it all come together on the table, but somehow that sizzle of garlic and steam of greens cooked for just us two seemed equally satisfying.
Like putting your feet up at the end of the day.

in the oven

2010-04-04T09:16:00.006-04:00

Currently in the oven:
Rhubarb and Strawberry Crisp with Vanilla and Hazelnuts

For the topping:
(adapted from the recipe in Chez Panisse Fruit)

3/4 C. all-purpose flour
1/2 C. white whole wheat flour
6 Tb. light brown sugar
2 Tb. granulated sugar
1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp. sea salt
2/3 C. ground hazelnuts
12 Tb. unsalted butter (1 1/2 sticks), cold, cut into small pieces

For the fruit:

4 C. rhubarb, washed, ends trimmed, and stalks cut into 1 inch pieces
16 oz. fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced (about 3 1/2 cups)
3/4 C. granulated sugar
1/2 a vanilla bean

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit.

Make the topping:
In a large bowl, combine the flours, sugars, cinnamon, salt, and ground hazelnuts. Add the cold butter pieces and rub together between your fingers until the mixture is crumbly and the butter is distributed throughout in small bits. Set aside.

In a separate bowl, combine the rhubarb, strawberries and sugar. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and add to the fruit mixture. Stir with a wooden spoon to combine and be sure to work the vanilla in evenly.

Place the fruit mixture in a baking dish (mine is roughly 12 x 8 x 2 1/2) and scatter the topping over the filling being sure to cover it entirely.

Bake in the center of the oven for 35-45 minutes, or until the topping is golden and the fruit juices are bubbling to the top.

Cool on a wire rack and serve slightly warm (with a bit of cream if you have it).
The scent is glorious.Happy Easter!

sunday

2010-03-29T06:00:00.002-04:00

Sunday was a gray and contemplative day. Best spent meditatively rolling pasta (for the freezer), listening to silence and waiting for the pelting of raindrops on the tin roof.
In the early evening the rain came. The sound of rain on the roof is always magnified - a gentle pour sounds torrential, deafening at times, but it can also be the perfect soundtrack for a catnap or soak in the tub. Both of which are excellent ways to spend rainy spring afternoon.

listing (and linking)

2010-03-17T13:28:00.015-04:00

Still in a day-dreamy sort of mood, imagining completed projects, and making so many little lists (optimistic and/or realistic). The weather is definitely swinging round to spring - clocks have moved forward (interrupting sleep patterns temporarily - but it's light so much later now!), the 'wintry wreaths' have come off the doors (to be replaced with warmer, sunnier ones), snow drops and crocuses are poking up (some in random spots in the yard - curious things), and the equinox is quite close (March 20th this year)...

The urge for un-cluttering, clearing, and polishing is setting in. This little 'recipe' is on the must-give-it-a-try very, very soon list. Anything that claims to vanquish that sticky top-of-the-fridge-and-cabinet-grime merits my fullest attention. Just need to find that empty spray bottle...

The seedlings are up and some are almost begging to be transplanted (still a few weeks to go though). A 7-foot deer fence has been procured along with a motion-sensor sprinkler to help deter those wild things who like to help themselves to our little patch. A garden hose needs to be re-routed, the ground around the spigot to be laid with stone. Oh, and seed potatoes will arrive soon too - a new crop for us!

Over the weekend I tried my hand at fish and chips with much success (after putting aside that fear of frying/astonishment at the use of such a quantity of oil), but made a mess of an intriguing brown soda bread recipe - why is it things so seemingly easy are sometimes the hardest? (I don't even want to talk about biscuits.)

I've also had eye on this dish for comfort and homeyness and this dish for crunch and healthiness.

What's on your list(s)?

daydreaming

2010-03-09T14:38:00.005-05:00

I keep daydreaming.The tomatoes and eggplants have been tucked into mini-greenhouses. The romanesco, kohlrabi and celeriac have sprouted. The leeks are 6-inch tall grassy fronds already. Doesn't matter that there are still a few piles of snow here and there, the garden needs to be amended and tilled, and a new fence erected. The sun's creeping back over to this part of the world and I think I can smell spring around the bend.

pre-meditated baking

2010-03-03T11:04:00.010-05:00

I'm hooked too.

a winter salad

2010-02-21T10:10:00.010-05:00

A week indoors, sitting fireside and watching the white-washed landscape for any little change - the re-appearance of a driveway, let's say, allows for plenty of time to make a grocery list.
And when one finally returns to that much-missed produce aisle - well, that grocery list suddenly seems laughably inadequate.
Even in deep winter, without the lure of sun-ripened tomatoes or blush-colored peaches, there is a jubilation in seeing fresh greens, perfect oranges, or the wispy fronds that top the crisp white fennel bulbs. The basket fills with all of the above and more - already satisfying a deep hunger, a real craving, for something more than sustenance - we need nourishment.
A cool, crisp salad always feels regenerative, and this salad, in particular, incites a reawakening, crunching under tooth like those first ice-crusted snowy steps out the door.

A Winter Salad

1/2 a bulb of fennel, a few fronds reserved
1 stalk celery
2 radishes
juice of 1/4 lemon
drizzle of olive oil
1 blood orange
a scattering of parsley leaves
a pinch of good sea salt
freshly ground pepper
a few slivers of shaved Parmesan

Using the very thinnest setting of a mandoline, slice the fennel, celery and radishes into a medium bowl. Toss with the lemon juice and a good drizzle of olive oil. Slice the top and bottom from the blood orange, and following the curve of the fruit, slice away the remaining pith and peel. Using a very sharp paring knife, liberate the segments by making a cut alongside each membrane that separates the segments. Add the orange segments to the salad along with the reserved fennel fronds and parsley leaves. Season with a pinch of salt and some fresh pepper. Divide the salad between to plates and top each serving with a few slivers of the Parmesan.

a little holiday

2010-02-10T17:48:00.005-05:00

Snow is a beautiful thing. Soft and quiet - it turns the night sky a pale pinkish gray and makes me feel a little giddy. We haven't had a winter like this in years, and I can't remember ever having two such massive storms fall back to back such as we've had this past week.
I'm lucky to be watching the flakes fall from inside my home, wood stove roaring, and tea warming on the stove top - keeping fingers crossed that the power does not go out (again).
Curiously, being house-bound in waist-high snow has the feel of childhood slumber parties, and the urge to spend more time than I care to admit in front of the television watching movies and indulging in ice cream (brrrrrr!) and other snackish bites is hard to ignore. It's a little holiday.

26 and counting...

2010-02-06T15:21:00.008-05:00

At last count - 26 inches.
And it's still coming.
Plenty of time for making a pot of soup.
(barley simmered with bay, steeped sun-dried tomatoes, collards, and a healthy dose of chilies)

comfy

2010-01-22T12:00:00.002-05:00

There is a 'new' comfy chair and ottoman in the corner. Next to the wood stove. Deep and cushiony. I can scoot back in and dangle my feet, transforming into a doll-sized version of myself, or sit sideways - toes on the arm, warming by the stove. But best of all is the ottoman because when put to use, it turns the big, comfy chair into the big, comfy lounge. And it's impossible not to tuck in with a little stack of beautiful books for a bit of armchair traveling (and tasting).

Lots of inspiring stuff in those books; plenty to keep busy with, but in the meantime a simple bowl of tomato soup is suiting me just fine...
Tomato Soup
(adapted for the winter pantry from the recipe for 'Cream of Fresh Tomato Soup' in the Barefoot Contessa: Back to Basics)

Saute together 1 diced yellow onion and 1 peeled and diced carrot in 2 Tb. olive oil in a soup pot for about 10 minutes, or until very soft. Add to this 3 cloves of garlic (minced) and 3 oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes (chopped finely) and cook another minute. Add 1 (28 ounce) can of whole, peeled tomatoes (broken with your fingers) and their juices, 2 tsp. sea salt, a few grinds of black pepper, 3 cups of chicken or vegetable stock (or water), and a small handful of chopped fennel fronds (or herb of your choice). Bring the soup to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer for about half an hour. Remove the pot from the stove and run it through, a bit at a time, a food mill fitted with the medium sized disk set atop a large bowl or second soup pot. Discard the solids left in the mill and return the soup to its pot. Add 1/4 cup of whole milk (or cream, or nothing at all) and gently reheat and adjust seasonings, if necessary.

a little birthday

2010-01-11T18:14:00.009-05:00

Over the weekend, I had a little birthday.
Monica Bhide's Chile Pea Puffs (courtesy of Heidi's page) were rolled into tiny wonton-wrapper bundles (doubling the paneer and substituting smoked paprika for chile powder)...
...And served with her Mango Chutney Dipping Sauce (found in here).

Also pilfered, was the recipe for Baked Sweet Potato Falafel.
Which was dolloped with a thick and tangy, mint, cilantro and garlic yogurt sauce (found in here).

Both were served alongside so many other tasty bites made by some of the best cooks (and greatest folks) I know. Thanks to you all for making it such a great time!

looking forward

2010-01-04T18:30:00.011-05:00

2010

This new year came in with an icy wind and surprise seed catalogs in the mail. Undeniable that winter is in its full and bitter-cold swing, yet a little glimpse - a reminder, really - that things do grow here and that sun and warmth will be shuffling in later this year. With a mug of hot tea and these inspirational catalogs, it's a bit warmer in here already.

I hope the new year brings us all great things.

And tasty things too - like this dish I made not too long ago:

Crispy Potatoes and Spicy Shitakes

(adapted from a similar recipe in the January 2010 issue of Martha Stewart Living Magazine)

1 to 1 1/2 Lbs fingerling potatoes, cut into 1/4-inch thick slices

about 8 oz. fresh shitake mushrooms, stems discarded and caps cut into strips

2 cloves garlic, minced

olive oil

salt and freshly ground pepper

1/2 tsp. dried lemon thyme (or regular thyme)

red pepper flakes (to taste)

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the potato slices with a drizzle of olive oil and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Arrange slices in one layer.

In a small baking dish, toss the sliced mushrooms, garlic, thyme, and red pepper flakes in a bit of olive oil.

Roast the potatoes on the bottom rack in the oven for 20-30 minutes, or so - until they are crispy and golden. Roast the mushrooms at the same time on the upper rack of the oven, for approximately 15-20 minutes - until they have softened and the flavors have mingled.

Remove the vegetables from the oven and toss together on a serving platter. Serve hot, with a grating of cheese, if you like - or some greens on the side, lightly dressed.

merry christmas

2009-12-26T11:42:00.003-05:00

Merry Christmas!

making mushrooms

2009-12-21T09:14:00.000-05:00

Little meringue mushrooms, piped, baked and assembled this past Saturday -

A fun (and rewarding) undertaking for the very snowy weekend.
If all goes according to plan, these faux fungi will reappear Friday alongside the 'stump'...
Happy holiday baking!

hope after cookies

2009-12-15T12:03:00.005-05:00

I don't want to alarm you with the dangerous quantities of butter and sugar that sit in random spots throughout the kitchen these days, so I have no photos today.

Cookie sheets and rolling pins, batter bowls and spatulas are the tools currently employed - the poor neglected soup pot (normally a fixture on the stove top) has actually found its way back into the cabinet! I say this with humor because it is a joy to bake for the holidays, but a little tricky to balance the baking with the cooking of an honest-to-goodness dinner. Lately I've managed, somehow, to stir up a pot of vegetarian chili and another of a mediocre coconut curry with cauliflower and potatoes - nothing to whet the appetite, really. I do have a vision of a golden, spinach-packed spanakopita, or possibly an earthy mushroom and cashew pie. There may be hope after cookies...

But while we're speaking of sweets, how extraordinary is this dessert?

I'm working up the courage to give it a try.

of weddings and snowfalls, winter colds and the making of pies

2009-12-07T14:43:00.008-05:00

It seems more days than intended have gone by since my last post. A flurry of visiting, dining, traveling, and celebrating has deposited me, fevered and sniffley, squarely on the sofa. Needless to say, not much has been happening in the kitchen - except, perhaps, for this - a dish I've not eaten in years, but suddenly craved the other day. Odd how that can happen, isn't it?

Still, great things worth sharing have been happening...

Such as our first snowfall of the season:

and the wedding of my brother to his elegant and charming bride!

(So, so happy for you, Nate and Julia!)

It's been a whirlwind, but I'm sure to be back in the kitchen soon (plenty of holiday baking ahead, certainly).
Before returning to my little sofa, though, I wanted to share my thoughts on making pies, as Mariana so sweetly asked after the recipe for the Thanksgiving apple pie previously posted.

I generally never use a recipe for fruit pies... I suppose I've made enough to have a feel for what's required - a big bowl of fruit, a scoop of sugar (maybe some spice), a spoonful or two of flour, cornstarch, or tapioca, a little lemon juice, and a bit of butter. They may not be the same one day to another, but I feel that's the beauty of them.
I do, however, use a recipe for the crust - for a 'special occasion' pie like this Thanksgiving pie, I use this all-butter recipe that never fails for me. The filling was composed roughly of the following:

3-4 Lbs. apples (about 8), peeled, cored and sliced - I used 4 Cameo and 4 York (the quantity really just depends on the depth of your pie dish)
1/4 - 1/2 Cup sugar, plus a tablespoon for sprinkling over the crust (this amount just depends on the sweetness of your fruit, and/or your preference)
1 - 2 tsp. cinnamon, depending on your preference (cardamom is also a favorite)
1 - 1 1/2 Tb. cornstarch (flour or tapioca or another thickener can be used)
juice of 1 lemon (sometimes I add the zest also)
1 Tb. butter, cut into small pieces (to dot the top of the pie)
1 large egg, beaten with just a trickle of water (to brush over the crust)

Combine the apples, sugar, cinnamon, cornstarch, and lemon juice in a large bowl. Spoon into a pastry-lined pie dish, mounding the mixture in the center. Dot the filling with the butter. Affix the top crust, crimping the edges to seal. Brush the dough with the egg wash and sprinkle the remaining tablespoon of sugar over the pie. Cut a few small slits in the top crust and bake for about 45 minutes or until crust is golden and juice is bubbling. (I think I set the oven to 400 degrees...)

thanksgiving

2009-11-26T14:18:00.003-05:00

Happy Thanksgiving!

busy, busy, busy

2009-11-22T14:03:00.003-05:00

So many little projects going on around here lately.
I've had little to no time to spend puttering in the kitchen. Meals are eaten amid balls of yarn and boxes of t-pins (very carefully). Seeding a pomegranate the other morning was a small accomplishment, but little else has been fussed over - quick (and healthy) meals don't seem to be my specialty. So, what do you eat when your kitchen time is limited? I'd love to know, as this is just the beginning of a most busy time of year...

mmmmm.

2009-11-10T20:53:00.010-05:00

Dinner with Julie's Pumpkin Stout Gingerbread

Greedily plucked from this interview weeks ago and currently being devoured with HUGE satisfaction before a quick trip into the mountains.

It is most highly recommended.

slightly smokey, slightly sweet

2009-11-03T17:01:00.006-05:00

Last night I was thinking about lapsang souchong. It's not a tea I particularly like; it's more a tea I particularly dislike. Yet I have a tiny tin of it in the tea cabinet because I just know it must have a good use, that maybe if I try hard enough, I might just convince myself that I actually like it... All it would take is one recipe.
I don't know if this is the one; I can't decide. Tea-soaked figs, walnuts, honey - a little bit sweet, a little bit smokey - it sounds right, but...
Oh - butter and honey! That's the ticket...

Slightly Smokey, Slightly Sweet Fig and Walnut Bread

Ingredients:

1 tsp. lapsang souchong tea leaves
1 Cup boiling water
3/4 Cup dried black mission figs, chopped
2 Cups white whole wheat flour
1 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. salt
4 Tb. buttermilk powder
1/4 Cup honey
3 Tb. sweet almond oil
1 large egg, lightly beaten
scant 1/2 Cup broken walnut pieces
butter or oil for greasing the pan

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly butter or oil a loaf pan and set aside.

Pour boiling water over the tea leaves and steep for 5 minutes. Strain out the leaves and pour the tea over the chopped figs. Steep the figs in the tea for 10 minutes; remove the figs and set aside, reserving the tea.

In a large bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and buttermilk powder. Set aside.

In a small bowl, beat together the honey, almond oil, egg, and reserved tea. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and add the honey-tea mixture. Stir until just combined and fold in the reserved soaked figs and the broken walnut pieces.

Spoon the batter into a greased loaf pan and bake in the oven for 45 minutes, or until golden and a wooden skewer inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool in pan on a rack for 5 minutes, then turn out and cool a bit more on the rack.

Slice and serve warm with a bit of butter and a drizzle of honey.

saucy

2009-10-25T10:52:00.006-04:00

In all honesty, I've not felt terribly inspired in the kitchen recently. Is it noticeable? The light is fading so much earlier these days, the night is quickly turning from chilly to cold and everything seems to slow down with these changes. Shifting into colder days, my energy has begun to ebb with the sunlight as I adjust to the rythym of late autumn and onset of winter. No bad thing - just a temporary lull.
And in these still evenings, tucking under a quilt on the sofa has become quite appealing. As have homey, simple things (simple is the key) like slow-cooked soups and simmering applesauce.
A strong cup of chamomile tea, a drizzle of honey and a few straggling apples don't ask for much from the cook.
No recipe to follow - just a little peeling and chopping and then off to the pot to perfume the house and simmer into a sauce.
Plenty of time to curl on the couch...

something satisfying

2009-10-19T08:13:00.006-04:00

There is something satisfying in making gnocchi (or gnuddi). In the kneading and rolling and shaping there is a rhythm - a space for thoughts, meditations.

And then in the finished little pillows, such satisfaction.

Oh, and they're pretty tasty too...

Gourmet magazine's Sweet Potato Gnocci with Fried Sage and Shaved Chestnuts*

As you may have heard, Gourmet Magazine will no longer be in print after the November issue. While I will be quite sad not to have these gorgeous issues greet me each month, the current website states that their archive of recipes will remain available through their sister site epicurious.com.

*A few notes: I found I only used 1 1/2 cups of flour total (including dusting the board) and I used chopped, toasted walnuts in place of the chestnuts as that is what was on hand and the results were quite good.

leaves and roots

2009-10-11T07:58:00.007-04:00

Several blustery days have rustled the trees and stirred the scent of fallen leaves. There is a damp sweetness about that smells like autumn and there nearly was a frost on the ground this morning. Today I'm inspired to sip tea from ceramic mug, click wooden knitting needles through a soft wool, and really not do much else...

Except, perhaps, a little shuffling in the kitchen:
Peeling and slicing and smelling a few earthy root vegetables - a perfectly autumnal task for such days.
Layering them (River Cottage style) in a dish with cream, garlic and chilies to be baked into a gratin.
Then savored with a handful of arugula tossed with lemon juice and olive oil.

Nothing fancy, but everything inspired.

the eggplant challenge

2009-09-26T19:41:00.005-04:00

Sneaking in just under the deadline, here's my submission for the Eggplant Challenge over at Grown in Frederick.

Pardon the not-so-stellar photos - I can't believe I don't have a shot of the raw vegetable. Eggplants are so photogenic too... It's a pity.

But this dish is no slacker - and cooks up in a flash once all the ingredients are prepped. (As the poorly lit photos allude, I whipped this up late one evening after work - the anticipation of actually eating being far more a concern than the photos at that point...)
Tempeh stands in for the more traditional ground pork here* and the eggplant lends its sweetness to this moderately spicy little dish.

Eggplant and Tempeh in a Chili Garlic Sauce
(inspired by the recipe for Eggplant with Spicy Garlic Sauce over Rice in Chinese Rice and Noodles)

Ingredients:

2 Tb. coconut oil
2 Tb. garlic, minced
2 Tb. fresh ginger root, minced
2 scallions, thinly sliced (white and green portions), plus more for serving
1 teaspoon chili garlic sauce
8 oz. tempeh
1 Lb. eggplant, peeled and sliced into 1 1/2 inch pieces
4 Tb. low sodium soy sauce
2 tsp. Shaoxing wine (or sherry)
2 tsp. granulated sugar
4 Tb. water (or stock)
1/2 Tb. cornstarch

Combine the soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, sugar, water, and cornstarch in a small bowl, whisking to incorporate the cornstarch smoothly. Set aside. Place a wok or large stir-fry pan over high heat, and when quite hot, add the oil followed by the garlic, ginger, and chili garlic sauce. Cook just until fragrant - only about 3o seconds. Add the crumbled tempeh and continue to stir fry until golden. Add the eggplant and cook until it is meltingly tender - about 10 minutes more - adjusting the heat as necessary to avoid burning. To the fully cooked eggplant and golden tempeh, add the soy sauce mixture (give it a stir just before adding to loosen any cornstarch that may have separated) and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring frequently for a minute or two until the sauce has thickened to the desired consistency (more water/stock may be added to produce a thinner sauce). Serve hot over jasmine rice and garnish with additional sliced scallions.

Thanks to the gals over at Grown in Frederick for putting this challenge together!

*For another take on using tempeh as a substitute for minced meat in Asian cooking see this post which put the notion in my mind...

waking up productive - making virtuous pancakes

2009-09-20T08:17:00.010-04:00

On September weekends I'm waking with the sun, marveling at the thick fog that envelops our tiny riverside town so early, and tucking cold toes into fleece-lined slippers to patter around the kitchen. Autumn is early this year - like a surprise party you began to suspect, but wouldn't let yourself believe until you saw a driveway full of familiar cars (sidewalks peppered with acorns, leaves already beginning to fall!).
With the morning chill comes vigor - waking up productive - and a hunger for something of substance, something virtuous.
Heidi's Wild Rice Flour Pancakes (with twists)
(from Heidi Swanson's Super Natural Cooking)

Ingredients:

1 cup white whole wheat flour
1/2 cup all purpose flour
1/2 cup wild rice flour (or roughly 2 heaping tablespoons wild rice blend ground to a powder in a spice grinder)
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/3 cup organic cane sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons melted butter
1/2 cup (heaping) applesauce (to make your own, peel, core and chop 1 large apple and cook it down to a mush with 2 tablespoons water and a scant tablespoon of sugar)
2 1/4 cups buttermilk (I used a buttermilk powder made for baking (5 tablespoons) along with approximately 2 cups of water instead of the buttermilk)
1 cup cooked wild rice
butter or oil for frying, if desired (I use a non-stick skillet and find I don't need any butter or oil)

Combine the flours, baking powder, baking soda, sugar, and salt in a large bowl. To the flour mixture, add the melted butter, applesauce, and enough buttermilk to make the batter (use more buttermilk if you prefer thinner pancakes, less if you prefer thicker) - mix only until just combined.
Heat a skillet or griddle over medium high heat. Pour 1/3 cup of the batter onto the hot skillet and sprinkle a tablespoon of the wild rice over the top. Wait until the edges begin to look dry and the batter is bubbling, then flip and cook just another minute or two, until golden. Repeat with the remaining batter and rice - you should have about a dozen pancakes with this recipe.

Serve hot with the usual accompaniments, or do as I did and eat them plain right of the plate with your fingers - they are that good.

*As the summer wanes and fall is upon us, it's time to make the most of what's left of the late summer crop - next up is the Grown in Frederick eggplant challenge!*

eating purple cauliflower

2009-09-12T07:44:00.006-04:00

I steamed the purple cauliflower,
and then, as suggested, made a version of Mostly Eating's recipe for Vivid Cauliflower and White Bean Puree (the timing for which could not have been better!).
Using a few scoops of leftover white beans which had been cooked in their liquid with some sauteed leeks and fennel in place of the canned butter beans, and swapping a bit of chevre (only about 2 oz.) for the tahini (as that's what was on hand), we served it up on some grilled rosemary bread and scattered the tops with a few snips of chives. We ate it alongside small bowls of chunky tomato soup, curled on the sofa, quite contented. It really was the perfect thing for the cool, early fall evening.
Thanks to both Lucy and Sophie for the inspired suggestion and the perfectly-timed recipe!

puttering

2009-09-07T10:33:00.013-04:00

Just puttering today -
Simmering a big pot of white beans (inspired by this),
baking a pretty pear pie (as found here),
and wondering, incidentally, what to do with this:
a forgotten graffiti cauliflower, discovered while prepping the garden for fall planting...
Isn't she a beauty - and purportedly pink when cooked! Anyone have a recipe that would suit such a pretty specimen?

pondering preserving

2009-08-28T09:38:00.011-04:00

I began peeling tomatoes at 7:00 this morning. By 8:00 the scent of boiling oregano-spiced sauce was wafting upstairs into the bedroom. (I won't lie. Even this early the smell sparks a pang of hunger cereal cannot compete with...)
After a few not-so-successful attempts to preserve raw-packed tomatoes, pizza sauce has become the preferred method of canning the San Marzanos that have just begun ripening.
As the canner was bubbling away this morning, I was pondering the act of preserving food. As the notion of eating local, seasonal items is such a hot topic these days, I wondered, even if these items come from your own backyard and were packed away months ago, is it odd to eat tomatoes in middle of January? Blueberries in October? Does doing so confuse our sense of the season?
Best not to think too hard so early in the morning...

But rather to share a recipe that celebrates some of these local, seasonal goodies while they are still abundant:
Panzanella
(adapted from Joanne Weir's recipe for Tuscan Bread Salad with Tomatoes and Basil in From Tapas to Meze)

Ingredients:

1/2 loaf of day-old rustic bread (about 1/2 pound)*
3/4 cup water
4 tomatoes (I used a variety of carbon, San Marzano and orange-fleshed purple smudge), seeded and chopped
1 medium red onion, diced
1 seedless cucumber, peeled and chopped
2 small cloves of garlic, minced
2 tablespoons capers (rinsed if they are salt-packed)
handful of fresh basil leaves, torn
handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons of balsamic vinegar
3 tablespoons of white wine vinegar
1/4 cup plus 1 ounce extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper

Slice the bread into 1-inch thick slices and place on a large plate. Sprinkle both sides of the slices with the water and let sit for 1 minute. Gently squeeze the slices with your hands to dry the bread. Tear the slices into rough bit-sized pieces and place them on paper towels to dry for 10 minutes.
In a large bowl, combine the tomatoes, red onion, cucumber, garlic, capers, basil and parsley. Add the dried bread and toss gently to combine.
In a separate small bowl, whisk together the balsamic and white wine vinegars with the olive oil. Add to the bread mixture, tossing gently to combine, and season with salt and pepper.

*If your bread is not quite stale, preheat the oven to 300 degrees and place the slices directly on the center rack for about 5 minutes or so just to dry them out a bit (not toast them) before sprinkling them with the water.

the august kitchen

2009-08-19T11:30:00.003-04:00

My kitchen is a sauna.

On any given evening this month, you will find three of my four burners and one impossibly small oven in use. Jars are in the oven keeping hot, a pot of simmering tomatoes, pickling brine, or fruit of the day is bubbling on one burner, a small pan of hot water for sterilizing canning lids and bands is on another, and on the back, boiling and gurgling away, sits the water bath canner.
Batch by batch I'm pickling, jamming and preserving my way through all the irresistible edibles of the August garden...

...and stopping here and there to sample some things picked straight away.

A pretty post not long ago reminded me that there are bouquets of edible arugula flowers in my herb bed that I've been meaning to taste. I hadn't realized the flowers were edible until earlier this year when I saw intriguing bags of the dainty white blossoms for sale at the farmer's market, and I had forgotten about them entirely until Lucy reminded me.

Some just-unearthed potatoes from a friend and a few handfuls of spicy arugula and cooling burnet were on hand, and since the kitchen was already a steamy tangle of pots and pans, I thought, why not boil another kettleful of water? Let's have pasta.

Ziti with Potatoes, Arugula and Burnet
(adapted from Alice Water's recipe for Pasta with Potatoes, Rocket and Rosemary in the Chez Panisse Vegetables cookbook and remembered from this post back in the spring)

Ingredients:

2 potatoes, sliced in halve lengthwise, then into 2/3-inch half-rounds
olive oil
salt and freshly ground pepper
1 sprig of fresh rosemary, leaves stripped, stems discarded
4 cloves garlic
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
3/4 Lb ziti (or other pasta)
1/4 Lb mixed arugula and salad burnet (about 3 cups), washed and spun dry
juice of 1/2 a lemon
a handful of fresh arugula blossoms

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Toss the sliced potatoes with some olive oil and salt and pepper. Spread them in one layer on a baking sheet, and bake until golden - about 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside. (I found it useful to 'un-stick' the cooked slices from the baking sheet using a spatula soon after they came out of the oven).

While the potatoes cook, heat a pot of salted water for the pasta and mince together the garlic and rosemary.

When the potatoes are done, cook the pasta.

While the pasta is cooking, heat a bit of olive oil in a large saucepan and saute the sliced onion for a few minutes, or until beginning to brown. Add the garlic and rosemary mixture and cook for just another minute. Add the sliced, cooked potatoes and toss to coat. Add the cooked and drained pasta and the mixed greens, stirring gently to combine and wilt the greens just a bit. Remove the pan from the heat and add the lemon juice, tossing to combine. Transfer the pasta to a serving dish, scatter the arugula blossoms on top and serve.

never turn your back on zucchini...

2009-08-11T16:30:00.001-04:00

...or this may be the outcome:

And it wasn't the only one...

But look! Tomatoes!!! (and beans and eggplant and peppers and cucumbers...)

It's good to be home.

Grill-Roasted Late Summer Vegetables with Fresh Oregano

Ingredients:

about 5 Cups chopped zucchini (this was 1 large, 1 medium, and 1 small zucchini for me)

1 very ripe deep red tomato, chopped

1 very ripe orange or yellow tomato, chopped

3 sprigs fresh oregano, leaves stripped, chopped, and stems discarded

1 large clove garlic, minced

olive oil

large pinch of sea salt

a few grinds of pepper

chopped fresh parsley, for serving (optional)

aluminum foil (a sheet about 24 inches long)

This is one of my favorite ways to cook in the summer, but this dish can also be made in a roasting pan in the oven. The cooking time might vary - keep an eye on the veggies, and I would heat the oven to 375 degrees.

Prepare a grill (we use a charcoal grill with a hinged cover).

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine the zucchini, tomatoes, garlic, and oregano. Add the salt and freshly ground pepper and drizzle with olive oil. Toss gently to coat the vegetables in the oil. Set aside.

Make an aluminum foil packet: fold a sheet of aluminum foil (about 24 inches long) in half to form a squarish shape. Fold over two of the open sides crimping them a bit to seal. Gently open the one un-crimped side and spoon the vegetable mixture into the packet. Fold over the opening to seal. You should have a tightly sealed squarish foil packet.

When ready, place the foil packet on the grill, put the lid on, and cook until the vegetables are cooked through - about 25 minutes depending on the heat of the grill. Ours was approximately 225 degrees. If the foil packet begins to char on the grill, move it to a cooler spot or lower the coals underneath it. When the vegetables are ready, carefully transfer the packet to a plate, open it slowly (there will be steam) and transfer them to a serving bowl. Garnish with a bit of chopped fresh parsley, if desired, and serve.

away

2009-07-30T12:34:00.004-04:00

Just a quick trip... The beach is calling.

waiting for tomatoes

2009-07-21T14:00:00.001-04:00

While I'm waiting, waiting, waiting for my very own tomatoes to ripen (so slow this year!), I've been using up what's left in the pantry. And though I'm soooooo ready for the first warm tomato off the vine, I still think it's amazing what a can of whole, peeled plum tomatoes can become. Throwing in some fresh herbs (tarragon, for instance) and making a quick sauce for some spectacular homemade ricotta gnocchi yielded some incredible results the other day.

Waiting for tomatoes might not be quite so hard after all...

Ricotta Gnocchi with Tomato-Tarragon Sauce

(inspired by and adapted from: this)

For the sauce:

Ingredients:

2 Tb. olive oil

1 small onion, diced

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 Tb. fresh tarragon, chopped

1-28 oz. can whole plum tomatoes (broken)

sea salt

Heat oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and a pinch of salt. Saute for a minute or two, until translucent. Add the garlic and tarragon and saute for 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes and their juice, bring to a slow simmer, and cook for 20-30 minutes, or until sauce has thickened to desired consistency. Season to taste with salt.

While sauce simmers, prepare the gnocchi.

For the gnocchi:

Ingredients:

1 Lb. Ricotta cheese (I use part-skim)

1/2 Cup grated Parmesan cheese

2 tsp. sea salt

1 large egg, lightly beaten

1 - 1 1/2 Cups flour

See recipe: here.

simplicity in string beans

2009-07-14T08:52:00.007-04:00

Perhaps they taste so perfect because they were so nearly ravaged. Perhaps their flavor has intensified with the anticipation.
One thing is for certain - steamed for just a moment and eaten with two fingers and a fleck or two of sea salt, each squeaky bite is bliss.

How do you like your string beans?

pause

2009-07-06T17:31:00.007-04:00

A moment of rest after the rush of the holiday weekend.
Well-earned after blueberry-picking, tidying, and entertaining.

Of course there were also a trio of homemade condiments, blueberry pie, honey ice cream, jam, and a well-loved potato dish that made their way out of the kitchen over the last 3 days. Not to mention yet another of Deborah Madison's: Blueberry Lavender Compote.
A spoonful or two of the compote's syrup stirred into a glass of sparkling water compliments an afternoon pause perfectly.

nibbling, munching and audible gasps

2009-06-29T17:39:00.013-04:00

One evening last week I took a walk out to the garden to visit the tiny veggies and to assess the workload for the following morning.

I took note that there would still be lettuce for picking and even snapped off a few remaining pea pods before I noticed the beans.

At which point I let out an audible gasp.
Nearly the entire center of four rows devoid of leaves - munched to the stalks, tiny beanlettes left exposed! Barely a plant was left un-nibbled.

Heartsick, I then discovered the evidence:
Deer. In the garden. Feasting away.
Needless to say, a better fence is in order; however that is not immediately possible. The current method of deer defense involves the application of a wretched-smelling (though all-natural) repellent solution around the perimeters.
When one grows vegetable plants, she can expect to defend the crop from all manner of detrimental insects and weeds, slowly, day-by-day, a bit of work here, a bit there. It is quite another thing to wake one morning and find the entire garden bare - a very real possibility with deer, rabbits, or even raccoons sniffing about.
I am fortunate to have lost so little, though it still makes me sigh to see those bare stalks. My home would not be the same without my animal neighbors, but with a little luck and some perseverance, perhaps I can turn their attention from my own garden back to the wild.

In the meantime, I'll take in the survivors and savor my harvest just that much more.

beets

2009-06-21T10:21:00.008-04:00

The beets are in.
I'd say it's pretty rewarding to venture out to the patch and pluck up these hardy roots. Perhaps more than their above-ground neighbors, beets, carrots and radishes seem to give me the most sense of wonder. I suppose since I can't see what's going on down there I am naturally curious and genuinely giddy when I can finally see what they've been up to for so many weeks...
Good job, beets - way to grow!
Mixed Beet Salad with Anise Hyssop
(adapted from the recipe for Red and Golden Beets with Anise Hyssop from Deborah's Madison's book: Local Flavors)

6 medium Chioggia beets
6 medium Detroit Dark Red beets
olive oil
salt and pepper
1/2 a medium red onion, sliced into very thin rounds (use a mandoline if available)
1 1/2 Tb. Champagne vinegar
1 large sprig of flat-leaf parsley
1 large sprig of anise hyssop

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit.

Combine the sliced onions and vinegar in dish, sprinkle with salt and refrigerate while you prepare the beets.

Wash, trim and peel the Chioggia beets. Quarter them and place them in a shallow roasting pan. Toss with a drizzle of olive oil and sprinkle with just a pinch of salt. Roast the beets in the oven just until fork tender - about 35 minutes, depending on their size. Remove from the oven and allow to cool.

While the Chioggia beets are roasting, wash and steam the Detroit Dark Red beets until fork tender - about 35 minutes, depending on their size. Place the cooked beets in a colander and run cold water over them until cool, rubbing the skins off as you rinse. Trim and thinly slice the peeled beets into rounds.

Layer the sliced Detriot Dark Red beets on a platter, scatter the quartered Chioggia beets over them. Top the beets with the onion slices and pour a bit of the soaking vinegar over the dish. Finely chop the parsley and hyssop to garnish the salad. Drizzle with a bit of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. If you have them, scatter over the top a few hyssop blossoms or nasturtium flowers to finish the dish.

Yunnanese Potatoes

2009-06-16T08:36:00.001-04:00

June is a whirlwind; the lettuce just keeps coming - collards and chard and snow peas too. The beets are surfacing, the melons and squashes are all stretching out along the ground. Corn is growing taller each day and the garlic is nearly ready for curing. In the midst of all this, a quick (unfortunately blurry) dinner of pan-fried potatoes makes good use of the just-cut garlic scapes and snips of the ever-plentiful chives.
Adjusted from the recipe for Quick and Tasty Yunnanese Potatoes in this book (which I cannot seem to put down), they are simple new potatoes - parboiled, allowed to cool, then pressed between the palms and fried with plenty of chopped green onions, garlic scapes and chives in little mixture of chili-spiked coconut and mustard oils.

Quite pleasing, indeed.

strawberry pie

2009-06-10T08:00:00.004-04:00

In my garage, snuggled under a tiny window lined with old bottles we unearthed tilling our little patch, sits my freezer. Nearly neglected in spring and summer when the garden is in full glory, it occupies its humble spot. However, when we can't bear to look at another green pepper or can't seem to keep up with over-productive green beans, into the freezer they go. A quick blanching followed by an ice bath and a towel drying is all that's necessary. Sometimes not even that much. In the dregs of winter it's a pleasure to rustle a bag of home-grown carrots out and recall their just-picked sweetness.

It's hard, however, to gauge just how much one should put away. How many bags of shredded zucchini can you use before the next year's haul is at hand? (The answer, I'm coming to find, is approximately one, by the way - shame on me!). So I find myself looking for ways to finish off the flavors of last year, before my freezer becomes the time capsule of fruits and veggies past.
Also, it just seems a little odd to bring in pints and quarts of new sun-warm fragrant berries while that icy prior generation looks on still in hibernation.

No worries, though. This pie turned out beautifully using last year's berries (which were hulled and frozen the day they were picked).
Strawberry Pie*
(adapted from Gourmet Magazine's recipe for Fresh Strawberry Pie with Whipped Cream)

The recipe specifies the importance of using only perfectly ripe berries, but I found that my perfectly ripe frozen berries were just a luscious.

Ingredients:

For the crust:
1 package honey graham crackers
2 Tb. cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
2 Tb. sugar

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

Grind the graham crackers in the bowl of a food processor until they become fine crumbs. Add the sugar and butter and process until evenly incorporated. Press the crumb mixture in the bottom an up the sides of a 9 inch pie plate. Bake the crust in the oven until golden - about 15 minutes. Cool completely on a rack.

For the filling:
2 Lbs. hulled and quartered frozen strawberries (hand-picked when perfectly ripe is ideal, of course)
3/4 C. sugar
1/3 C. fresh lemon juice
1 envelope (2 1/4 tsp.) unflavored gelatin

In a large bowl combine the strawberries, sugar and lemon juice and allow to stand, stirring occasionally, for 45 minutes. Place a sieve over a large measuring cup and gently strain the liquid from the berries. Set the reserved berries aside. If necessary add enough water to the strawberry liquid to equal 1 1/2 cups. Pour the liquid into a small saucepan and sprinkle the gelatin over the surface. Allow the gelatin to soften for a minute or two, then bring the mixture to a bare simmer, stirring to dissolve the gelatin. Remove the mixture from heat and, in a metal bowl, combine it with the reserved berries. Place the bowl in the freezer for 30 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes, until it starts to thicken (the original recipe says until the mixture begins to mound, but I found this an odd term - it should be thick and just beginning to gel). When the mixture has chilled sufficiently, spoon it into the prepared, cooled, crust and refrigerate the pie for at least 4 hours (up to 24).

Serve cold with fresh whipped cream if you have it handy.

*I have altered this recipe specifically for the use of frozen berries, if you are making the pie using fresh, follow the original recipe for the pie filling through the link provided (the macerating time and liquid amount have been adjusted here to allow for the thawing and excess liquid of the frozen berries).

satisfaction...

2009-06-01T15:30:00.005-04:00

...for a recurring craving:Vietnamese Vermicelli Bun with Grilled Lemongrass Chicken

Ingredients:

(The list of ingredients/accompaniments may be long, but it is easily varied and, once assembled, you have only to choose your preferred combination)

For the marinade:

1 stalk lemongrass, trimmed and sliced
1 Tb. granulated sugar
pinch of sea salt
1 shallot, minced
juice of 1 lime
2 Tb. Vietnamese fish sauce
splash of tamari (or other soy sauce)
1 Tb. sunflower, canola or peanut oil

1 - 1 1/2 Lbs. boneless, skinless chicken breast, pounded very thin
(shrimp or tofu would be good also)

Suggested accompaniments:

1 package rice vermicelli, cooked, drained and rinsed in cold water
shredded Romain lettuce
fresh sprigs of mint, cilantro and basil
lime wedges
nuoc chom*
Vietnamese hot chili sauce
julienned carrot, cucumber and scallions
fresh mung bean sprouts
chopped peanuts
crispy fried shallots

Method:

Crush the lemongrass with the sugar and salt with a mortar and pestle until a paste is made (a food processor may also be used). In a shallow bowl, combine the lemongrass paste with the shallot, lime juice, fish sauce, tamari, and oil. Stir to combine and add the chicken, being sure to coat each piece. Cover and refrigerate 6-8 hours.

Bring the chicken to room temperature and prepare charcoal grill. When coals are ready, grill the chicken until cooked through and nicely seared. Remove to a board, allow to cool slightly, and slice the chicken into 1/2 inch strips.

Assemble the bun: For each serving, add to a large bowl a bit of shredded lettuce, some of the julienned vegetables and bean sprouts. Top with a serving of vermicelli. Lay strips of the chicken on top of the noodles, and serve with torn herbs, fried shallots, peanuts, lime wedges, nuoc chom, and chili sauce.
*Nuoc chom recipes abound - I used the version found in this book. However, the ratio of lime juice/rice vinegar to fish sauce and the addition of hot chilies and/or garlic are largely subject individual tastes and are easily modified by experimentation.
It's beginning to taste like summer.

from top to bottom

2009-05-19T09:00:00.001-04:00

I wish I could capture the true color of these radishes. They seem to photograph in a more magenta hue than is accurate regardless of the light I use. In reality, however, they vary from the palest lavender to a deep and moody plum color - hence the name Purple Plum, I suppose.
When pulled straight from the soil and given a rinse, they bite at your tongue with a quick, but intense spice and crunch. Yet when refrigerated or cooked, their flavor mellows.
The greens are covered in fine, bristly hairs that graze your fingers like a cat's tongue. Their flavor is similar to arugula, I find, and when wilted in the pan much of their slight bitterness softens.

Honey-Lime Heirloom Radishes with Greens
(adapted from the recipe for Sauteed Radishes with Radish Greens or Arugula in Farmer John's Cookbook: The Real Dirt on Vegetables)

Ingredients:

1 Lb. radishes with greens
2 Tb. butter
2 Tb. fresh lime juice (approximately 1 lime)
2 tsp. honey
Salt and Pepper
Chili Powder or Smoked Paprika (optional)

Wash, trim and quarter radishes. Pick through and rinse radish greens. Whisk the lime juice and honey together in a small bowl. Set aside.

Heat butter in a medium saucepan, over medium-high heat until melted. Add radishes and saute until tender-crisp, about 5 minutes. Remove radishes, place in a bowl and set aside. To the same pan, add the radish greens and saute until just wilted, about 2 minutes more. Add the radishes back to the pan with the greens. Add the honey-lime mixture and stir to coat the greens and radishes. Remove from heat, season with salt and pepper and serve sprinkled with chili powder or smoked paprika.

productivity

2009-05-17T12:50:00.008-04:00

Things are growing...

pretty purple chives about to blossom

the tiny pea shoot has started to flower!

tender baby lettuce in complimentary hues

Mandarin honeysuckle in need of a trellis

heirloom radishes; big and small

Ostrich ferns - tall and cool, for a little hide-away

The garden is full; all planted in tidy rows, tucked away in a bed of straw. Gleefully weed-free - for the time being... Among the new transplants - 27 fragile tomato plants; and there's a chance of frost for the next 3 nights.

I'm thinking warm thoughts...

spring in full swing

2009-05-10T08:18:00.011-04:00

Rhubarb is here, spring is in full swing, and I'm ready to start making jam. I should be outside working in the garden, but surely one of the greatest joys of having one's own garden is the time spent in the kitchen getting to know the harvest - and I still have a lot to get to know about rhubarb. I don't yet grow rhubarb in my own patch, but it is readily available at local farmer's markets and some grocery stores for a few weeks in the spring.

Since the first signs of spring I'd been dreaming of making a rhubarb jam. I'd imagined a blushing pink hue and pleasant tart-sweet flavor, maybe flecked with tiny vanilla seeds (as a friend cleverly suggested), or perhaps bits of chopped figs. I'd never tried rhubarb in jam form, but there was just something quite appealing to me in the idea.

In flipping through some inspirational books, I came across the recipe for Rhubarb Grapefruit Preserves in the Chez Panisse Fruit book. The simplicity of the recipes in the Chez Panisse books always wins me over, though I couldn't resist the addition of dried figs which I found sweetened the jam just a touch and seemed to blend rather nicely with the intensely fragrant grapefruit.

Here is my adaptation of the recipe:
Rhubarb, Fig & Grapefruit Jam
(adapted from the Alice Waters' recipe for 'Rhubarb Grapefruit Preserves' in the Chez Panisse Fruit cookbook)

yields approximately 3 1/2 pints of jam

Ingredients:

2 Lbs. rhubarb stalks, cut into 1/2 inch chunks
2 grapefruit, peeled and juiced, pith removed and the rind chopped very fine
4 cups sugar
8 oz. dried Black Mission Figs (or other dried figs of your choosing), chopped - stems removed

Method:

Place a plate or two in the freezer for testing the jam later.

Prepare canning jars and lids.

In a large stockpot with a lid, combing the chopped rhubarb, grapefruit rind, grapefruit juice (strained), and sugar. Cover and let sit overnight.

Bring the rhubarb mixture to a boil, uncovered, over high heat. Continue to cook, skimming off any foam rising to the surface, until the jam is thickened and reaches the 'gel stage' when placed on a cold plate. (This took me roughly 15 -20 minutes)
When the jam has reached the gel stage, turn the heat off, and begin ladling the hot jam into the hot, sterilized jars, being sure to leave 1/4 inch head space. Wipe the rims clean with a clean, damp towel, place the lids on and screw down the bands just until finger-tight. Process in a water bath canner with the lid on for 10 minutes. Remove the lid and process for 5 minutes more. Remove the jars from the canner and test the seals. Any jars that do not seal may be placed in the refrigerator and will be good for several weeks.

bliss!

2009-04-30T15:00:00.002-04:00

Really, what can I say?

I'm still tickled.

Over these:

I really don't even have words to describe my enthusiasm. I'd like to just type paragraphs of exclamation points. Is that over the top? I don't care! Can you believe I came away from the market with this treasure of just-foraged morels?!?! This is the first time I can ever remember seeing wild mushrooms at a local farmer's market, and curiously I had just recently discussed this lack of fungi with a few sympathizers. Happy to be proven wrong. Thank you foragers!
Seems a bit cruel to cut up such glorious haul, but trust me. Or rather, trust Alice. This salad is divine. Coupled with a handful of herb-roasted new potatoes and a cool glass of wine - bliss. Roasted Wild Mushroom Salad with Parmesan

from Alice Water's Chez Panisse Vegetables

it's just too soon

2009-04-26T15:50:00.005-04:00

The only thing for it.
A tall, iced-filled glass of jasmine tea.
90 degree weather in April? It's just too soon.

too much to do...

2009-04-19T12:33:00.005-04:00

I'd love to stay and chat and talk about the lovely greens and perky French radishes my Farmer's Market provided this morning - the Russian Kale looks especially promising - but there is simply too much to do around here to linger. There are lilac, azalea, camellia, and jasmine to plant; garden fencing to mend, and a porch swing to hang!
There always seems to be time for soup, however, so before I'm off, I'll leave you with this for your bowl...
Chicken, Bacon, Barley Soup

Ingredients:

2 split chicken breasts (skin-on, bone-in)
olive oil
salt and pepper
1/4 cup lean bacon, chopped (about 4 strips)
3 large shallots, chopped
2 stalks celery, diced
1 tsp. dried thyme
3/4 cup pearled barley
3/4 cup dry white wine
6-8 cups homemade chicken stock

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Place the chicken, breast-up, on an oiled broiler pan, rubbing a little oil over the breasts and seasoning them with salt and pepper. Roast the chicken on the middle rack in the oven for 30-45 minutes, or until browned and just cooked through. Remove from the oven and set aside to rest.

In a large stockpot, heat 1-2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat (if using a more fatty bacon, this oil may not be necessary). Add the chopped bacon, shallots and celery to the oil and cook until the bacon crisp, but not burned. Add the thyme and the barley and stir to combine and coat the barley in the oil and rendered fat - just a minute or two. Add the wine and stir until it begins to be absorbed. Add the chicken stock (6 cups for a thicker soup; 8 for a thinner version) and bring to a simmer. Cook, uncovered, stirring every so often, just until the barley is cooked and tender - about 30-45 minutes.

In the meantime, remove the skin from the cooled chicken, and shred the meat. Add to the soup once the barley has cooked, continuing to heat the soup until the chicken has warmed. Season the soup with salt and pepper and serve.

shoots, leaves and petals: an interlude

2009-04-05T17:01:00.008-04:00

The sun returned this weekend. At first hesitant, then brilliant (albeit accompanied by a ferocious wind), and today coy - ducking in and out behind the clouds. It's been a cheerful, busy weekend nonetheless, but I had to set aside a few minutes this afternoon to spend admiring the new landscape the season is inspiring.

cherry blossom

pea shoot

daffodil

golden marjoram

Just a little appetizer - dinner's on the way...

a little bit of lemon on a gray day

2009-03-29T15:23:00.008-04:00

Well, I may have spoken too soon. About the light, that is. Seems I've forgotten how persistently gray and rainy early spring can be. Still, things are growing! Fields are being carpeted in that new spring grass that nearly vibrates with color and that just makes me happy. And, well, I know we need the rain.
So I've been searching for a while now for a good springy lemon recipe. Something to brighten up the kitchen on these damp days. Nothing too sweet - mind you, because it's now that time of year for transitioning in to salads and lighter fare, remembering that we should be eating more healthfully, and all that 'fresh-start' business.
It's also been good reading weather, and as I was lost in Molly's new book yesterday morning, the recipe I'd been searching for just happened to find me.
I should know by now that inspiration is not born of force. Silly girl.
The best things always seem to be unexpected (much like the weather, these days).

Molly's recipe for this lemon yogurt cake (mine was made with olive oil, as was a suggested variation) can be found here, though I used the recipe as written in her book. It's simply perfect.

a little bit of light

2009-03-21T13:30:00.001-04:00

A miraculous thing - the return of the sun. The light now lingers just a few moments more each day invoking a vibrancy as only the turn of a season can. I am thrilled, I tell you - thrilled, to have just a little bit of light left in the evenings to photograph again.
However, I confess I wish I'd photographed this beautiful baby bok choy the moment I brought it home. As lovely as it is here, it spent longer than I had intended just out of sight (and memory) in the fridge. Thankfully, they were hardy bundles and were put to good use with the rest of my first asparagus, a handful of shitakes, and some slivers of carrot - a decent impromptu dinner of red quinoa and spring veggies.
I have no recipe to give, only a method to share:

In a small pot, cook 1 cup of quinoa in 2 cups broth or water until the liquid has been absorbed and the grain is cooked. Meanwhile, heat a bit of oil in a skillet or wok, and when hot, add your chosen vegetables in order according to cooking times (here the carrots and asparagus went in first, then the others); just before they are finished cooking, toss in a bit of minced ginger and garlic. Add a bit of soy sauce or tamari and perhaps a spoonful of cornstarch dissolved in 1/4 cup or so of broth or water to make a thicker sauce. Serve the vegetables over the quiona garnishing with a few slivered scallions.

a brilliant spring preview

2009-03-11T17:53:00.007-04:00

I started tomato and eggplant seedlings.

I know last week started with snow and school closings, but it ended in a brilliant spring preview that brought out grills, opened windows, and gave us an extra hour of daylight. And while I know the temperature has yet to settle into those gorgeous 70-degree days, one cannot deny the arrival of spring when there is asparagus this fresh to be bought.
What a delight - something green! (Fiddlehead ferns - are you listening?)

So, with The Zuni Cafe Cookbook already in mind, I decided to delve right in and try out Judy's recipe for Asparagus & Rice Soup with Pancetta and Black Pepper. (Peppered bacon stood in for the pancetta here.)
I can't think of another dish that so captures the feeling of March for me. Bright with new asparagus for those dreamy, new-earth scented days, yet still warm and smokey with lots of black pepper and bacon for those inevitable cold snaps.
It's going to be a good spring.

good night, sweet prunes

2009-03-05T18:25:00.001-05:00

Steeped in tea, sweetened a tad, and put to rest with a kiss of mandarin orange peel.
I'll see you in the morning.Oolong-Steeped Prunes with Mandarin Orange Peel
(inspired by the recipe for Masala Chai Poached Prunes found over at In Praise of Sardines and by Judy Rodger's recipe in the ever-tempting Zuni Cafe Cookbook)
Ingredients:

8 oz. pitted prunes
1 cup water
A scant tablespoon of oolong tea leaves
Several bits of dried Mandarin orange peel (I used about six - 1/2 to 1 inch pieces)
A scant tablespoon of sugar

Bring the water to a simmer, pour over tea leaves and dried orange peel in a shallow dish. Steep for 10 minutes. Strain the tea leaves, reserving the liquid and removing the peels. Set peels aside and stir sugar into tea to dissolve. Place prunes in a jar, tucking in the reserved peel as well. Pour the tea over the prunes to just cover them. Cover and let cool. Let soak at least several hours, and store in the refrigerator.

King Cake

2009-02-24T07:58:00.004-05:00

In honor of Fat Tuesday. King Cake.

Made with few alterations from this recipe.

well-behaved women rarely make... pasta sauce?

2009-02-19T18:00:00.000-05:00

Puttanesca is a dish with a history as colorful as a Tommie dePaola book. And that, perhaps, is why I like it so very much. I smile thinking of those Neapolitan ladies of leisure concocting this sauce to woo their men. I can imagine the draw - the scent of a simmered sauce "tarted up" with capers and olives wafting out over moon-lit cobbled streets; the way to the heart found through the stomach. It's as vivid in my imagination as it is in my bowl.

Certainly does warm things up a bit, doesn't it?

Spaghetti Puttanesca

Ingredients:
2 Tb. olive oil
2 large cloves of garlic, minced
1/2 tsp. hot red pepper flakes (more or less, to suit your tastes)
1 - 28 oz. can San Marzano tomatoes in puree (or any whole, peeled tomatoes in puree)
1/4 tsp. Kosher salt
1/4 tsp. fresh ground pepper
1/2 cup canned artichoke hearts, drained and broken into large chunks
1/4 cup jarred roasted red bell pepper, chopped coarsely
1/4 cup Kalamata olives, pitted and broken
1/4 jarred capers, drained (rinsed if you desire)
a handful of torn fresh basil leaves

1 Lb. dried spaghetti

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil for the pasta.

While water is coming to boil, prepare the sauce. In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the tomatoes in their puree, until broken, but not smooth. Set aside. In a medium pot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat and add the garlic and hot pepper flakes. Cook for 30 seconds or just until fragrant, being careful not to burn the garlic. Add the processed tomatoes and their puree, the salt, and the pepper to the pot. Reduce heat to low and simmer 20 minutes, partially covered. Add the artichokes, roasted red pepper, olives, and capers, and continue to simmer for 10 more minutes, while the pasta cooks. Remove the sauce from heat and add the torn basil leaves. Drain the pasta, return it to the pot, and add the sauce, tossing to coat the pasta.
Serve with a bit of grated Parmesan and wink or two.

seems just right

2009-02-04T13:01:00.000-05:00

It's confusing here - near 50 degrees the other day, now hovering near the 20's; bright, sunny, and hinting of spring one moment, then gray, snowy, and definitely still winter the next. I don't know whether to forage for salad, or sink into a bowl of soup. So, I'm doing both...

Ina Garten's Italian Wedding Soup (from 'Barefoot Contessa Back to Basics')
A steamy bowl of homemade broth, simmering away with tiny pasta stars, little chicken meatballs, and just-wilted spinach - seems just right.

Of course, adding a nice green salad and a loaf of Ina's Garlic Ciabatta Bread is a good idea too.

Black Mango Sticky Rice

2009-01-22T10:16:00.006-05:00

Though the recipe needs some adjusting, I had to share this photo. This dish brought a little brightness to my winter kitchen last week - nice to see some color on a cold, snowy day I think.